A Trip to South Africa
South Africa is one of my most favorite destinations in the world. It’s such a diverse country with welcoming people of various backgrounds, constantly changing topography, an impressive food scene, an abundance of world-class wineries, and no shortage of activities to participate in. It’s for that reason that I wanted to take my husband for our belated honeymoon and properly spoil him. Luckily, Dave, our President at KAI, was fully supportive of this plan, so we utilized the amazing KAI collection to build a two-week honeymoon. I then sent my husband home and stayed for one more week to explore more areas. I’ve been to South Africa several times, both for business and pleasure, but this was my first time really getting to experience luxury travel at a client’s pace, and it allowed me to get a better feel of various properties and regions from a client perspective (as well as a travel professional, of course).
Days 1-4
We spent 4 days in Cape Town, but since my colleague Ann was also recently there and wrote about it extensively, I’d recommend reading her trip report for the insider tips on that portion.
Day 5
We chose to take the scenic route from Cape Town to Grootbos via Clarence Drive and it was gorgeous!! It did lengthen the trip a bit but it was so worth it! We stopped along the way for some photo ops because the views were incredible. We also took a quick break at Betty’s Bay to see the penguins. We had been to Boulders Beach a few days prior, but I wanted to compare the two experiences. I think the Peninsula Tour has many benefits, but for people that are primarily interested in penguins and pretty scenery, they could get the same outcome by visiting Betty’s (if on their way to Hermanus/Grootbos).
Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by Ruann, our guide. He already had our preferences in hand and knew about the Marine 5 boat cruise we’d pre-booked as well. He had everything laid out brilliantly and told us how we’d fit all the activities in at Grootbos in just 3 days. Initially I thought we’d have a ton of free time, but wow was I wrong! We arrived in time for a late lunch (the food at Grootbos…I could write a novel) and still had a chance to relax on the first afternoon since it was an extremely windy day (30+ MPH winds). I could have spent an entire day just sipping a bevvy and staring at the views, so I was thankful for the time to do nothing. We were escorted to our suite at Forest Lodge, given the grand tour of the property, and left to our own devices until we wanted to return for sundowners and/or dinner.
That evening we enjoyed our first 5+ course meal for dinner and started to really get a feel for what sets Grootbos apart. The menu was exceptional, had something for everyone, and had varying daily specials available to us. Everything we ate was delicious and bursting with flavor. The staff was also so lovely.
A quick note about the suites: they are modern, open, and inviting. The bathroom, bedroom, and living room are all situated for unobstructed views of the Walker Bay, making the rooms feel extra blissful. The woodburning fireplaces are lit during turndown on chilly evenings which makes coming back extra welcoming. We were also on our belated honeymoon, so they had some truffles and champagne for us to celebrate.
Day 6
The wind was still at it this morning and Ruann found us at breakfast to rearrange our schedule a bit. He recommended we take the morning to relax and then go ahead with the Living the Future Tour in the late morning and 4x4 Botanical drive in the afternoon. I was super impressed by his proactive scheduling and how much detail he had on the weather to accommodate us. He had done all that, including pushing the boat tour to the following day, all before 8am. Breakfast was amazing with a good variety of “normal” breakfast foods and more unusual options for every type of eater (maybe name one?) Everything was exceptional.
After breakfast we went on the Living the Future Tour and did an abbreviated version. Depending on the traveler this could easily take an entire day (getting involved in the community projects, spending time in the garden, working alongside the entomology department etc). We finished up at their florilegium and moved through fairly quickly as we had lunch and the botanical safari still to come. The Florilegium can be completed between 10 minutes and 4 hours, it really depends on someone’s interest. They’re extremely good at reading the room too and accommodating each group/visitor etc. On the surface the artwork is beautiful, but it’s the stories and education behind everything that makes the experience so special. I planned to go back and spend more time but our trip ended up not allowing for it (this time)!
We also fit in a site inspection of the Garden Lodge which has a much different vibe than Forest Lodge. On the surface the décor is similar, but Garden has a very busy reception area with kids hanging around and several conversations happening at once amongst guests. In their full rebuild they also upgraded the wine cellar to truly accommodate their wine loving guests. Garden also has lovely views, just a different perspective on Walker Bay. Bonus: with the rebuild they added a day room for people with late departures etc. and there’s no cost to utilize the showers etc. Forest is better for people that want to really feel separated and enjoy peace and quiet. Garden feels more alive with all the people utilizing the common areas during the day (I think at Forest people are either off on activities or enjoying the time in their suite).
In the afternoon we went for our 4x4 botanical drive. It was remarkable to touch, feel, and even taste, some of the plants on the reserve and how it all works together. Our drive was 1.5 hours (which is average) but they’re happy to go 3-4+ hours if a guests wish to keep going. I do think who your guide is can make all the difference here so if you have a flora obsessed client, it’s advisable to let Grootbos in advance so they can schedule accordingly.
That evening we went to the Garden Lodge and were happy to see they had a gin tasting setup for sundowners. It was so fun to try something different! They also hosted us in the new wine cellar for a 5-course menu incorporating all the botanicals. It’s still in trial phase and they’re working out how to offer it to guests. Each course includes a botanical from the reserve on a platter as a type of key. Then with every course one of those associated plants is incorporated into the meal. After dinner the chefs came out and chatted for a bit and were happy to answer questions we had as well. The meal was exceptional but it was quite unique so not good for nervous eaters. The setting was intimate, but there was also a family eating so it is very much something that will be for both properties. They are hoping to host at Garden Lodge primarily due to their wine cellar being visible behind the glass.
Day 7
The next day was our Marine 5 excursion. We left the lodge around 7am and drove about 10 minutes to Gansbaai where our boat was docked. The trip is a little hit or miss and goes between 1.5 hours and 3 hours. It depends on how the wildlife is behaving that day. The boat is not a good fit for people with motion issues. 2-2.5M waves are average, they spend a long time idling while watching the whales which leads to the boat rolling quite a bit. We did see sharks, but they don’t let you stay long, as they ask that you book shark diving if you want to see more. We were at the tail end of whale season but we did manage to see 2 whales (mom and her calf) and we stuck with them for over an hour and a half (a little long in my opinion). True whale season is late July - first week of Nov for amazing viewing. We did see loads of penguins and seals as well, but no dolphins this time! Truthfully, I wouldn’t book the Marine 5 excursion unless it is Jul-Oct, otherwise it isn’t worth taking away from time at Grootbos.
That afternoon we went and did the ancient caves walk which was incredible! It is not ideal for people that have low mobility, but in those cases Grootbos will turn it into a coastal drive. The walk up from the caves can be tough and there is scrambling to get into the caves themselves. The views were exceptional and the history lesson our guide gave us on the bushmen was fascinating. They are currently building a walkway at the base of the stairs to avoid walking along the rocks in the future. This tour also lasts about 1.5 hours. We ran out of time to have lunch and horseback ride after the caves so instead we visited the horse stables, pigs, guinea pigs, and goats on the property. These are all at Garden Lodge and are situated by the kid’s playground area.
That evening we enjoyed sundowners at the lodge and the beautiful sunset views during dinner.
Day 8
We had a nice relaxing morning today before walking one of the trails at the property (they have 3 at Forest Lodge—a 15 minute, 1 hour, and 3 hour option). Forest Lodge doesn’t have a strong social environment as it does cater to couples, but that can be a nice change from city & socialness of safari. Around 11am our driver picked us up and drove us to Le Franschhoek Hotel and Spa. The hotel has a quaint feel to it, despite having 63 rooms. The views are stunning and the contemporary Cape Dutch architecture is comforting. It’s a charming 4-star property for people looking for a getaway on a tighter budget.
Since LFH&S is located about 5 minutes from town they offer shuttle services at an additional cost that they call as needed. Their service is a little disorganized, but it worked for our needs. Uber in Franschhoek is incredibly unreliable so that isn’t much of an option unless it’s peak season. We spent the afternoon walking around town, had drinks at a local pub, and watched the World Cup with a bunch of locals that were very invested 🙃.
Day 9
The next day was our tram wine tasting tour. I booked the orange line which departed from Groot Drakenstein, about 15 minutes from the town of Franschhoek. We took the first train of the day and skipped the first 2 wineries in order to avoid waiting while at Babylonstoren. Pro tip, skip the first two stops and go straight there for no lines! Had a delicious charcuterie board and several tasty wines. No one joined us until we were leaving almost 2 hours later. Babylonstoren’s property is stunning but the farm is also incredible and worth taking a tour of.
Our next stop on the tram was at Vrede en Lust where the views of the valley were out of this world. That alone made it worth it! The wine we had was also delicious and the wine estate is quite fancy so we were able to take advantage of the much-needed AC.
Our final stop was a bit of a risk with a lesser-known estate called Solms Delta…and we immediately realized it was a bit of a mistake. It reminded me of a rough college party house. I think it’s last on the list for a reason as people are typically inebriated. The food was still fine, unfortunately they did forget to bring us wine before our tram picked us up so I can’t speak to that this time around.
We then took the shuttle back to Franschhoek in time for dinner at Protégé, which was AMAZING! We sat at the chef’s counter and got to watch them all preparing the meals for the whole restaurant. It was a fairly limited menu, but everything was so incredible! I’d highly recommend this for people wanting a 5-star dinner with a bit of excitement.
Day 10
After the relaxing time in Franschhoek we finally headed off to the bush! We drove 1.5 hours to Cape Town Airport and flew to Mpumalanga. On arrival we met our driver and started the 2-hour drive to Dulini. The roads were all well cared for and the drive was quite pleasant. Once you arrive to the gate there’s another 30 minutes or so on the reserve before arriving to Dulini Moya’s entrance.
Moya is tucked into the reserve away from the other lodges and fence line, so it feels secluded. It is truly a luxury escape that encapsulates both modern luxury décor and the classic African safari. We were warmly greeted on arrival, shown to our incredible suite, and then had a quick lunch. Lunch and dinner at Dulini are laid out similarly. You dine with your travel companions and share a platter of food with self-serve from those choices (about 6 dishes). The food is always amazing, and they do let you know ahead of time what the theme of the meal is in case you have an aversion (our first lunch was curry themed and fantastic, but they understand some people may want something different).
We enjoyed some snacks and beverages before departing on our first game drive. Dulini’s vehicles are a 10/10. They have everything! I first noticed how clean they were (especially the inside). Each seat has a small pocket & large pocket to hold your things, the center consoles have ponchos/blankets, bug spray, sunscreen etc. They also gave us personalized water bottles that don’t rattle in the vehicle and fit perfectly in their cup-holders. Dulini has paid attention to all the little things and it really sets them apart.
Dinamosi and Isaac, our guide and tracker, were amazing. Dinamosi had so much enthusiasm about every animal we saw, and he and Isaac clearly had a lot of fun together. Watching them interact and enjoy their work with how long they’ve been doing this was such a thrill. The bush was dense, and very green, but the animals were still out in the open. On our first game drive (and my husband’s first-ever game drive) we had amazing sightings of the big 5. That soon became the norm for our time at Dulini. Talk about spoiled! We enjoyed our sundowners in the bush, a full selection of snacks (biltong, dried fruit, nuts, etc) and several drinks of choice. We then enjoyed a lovely dinner back at the lodge at our leisure. Their food was amazing!
Day 11
The next morning, we had our bright and early start (5:00am coffee and 5:20am departure) and yet another big 5 game drive! Just another day with amazing trackers, guides, and in the Sabi Sand!
We came back to a delicious cold breakfast buffet + hot breakfast add-on. Dulini always does a group breakfast so you can get to know your vehicle mates a bit more. Dinamosi joined us as well which I really appreciated.
That afternoon we had a chance to nap and relax in the room midday which was necessary 😊
Once again that evening our game viewing was excellent! I jokingly told our guide I’d like to see wild dog, knowing they’re not as prevalent in the Western Sector of the Sabi Sands, and as luck would have it, they chose to cross into that territory that same evening! Dinamosi drove at the speed of light to make it in time, and we managed to catch a great view of the pack for a few minutes before disappeared out of sight. Reminder: they do have a strict 3 vehicles per sighting policy which is strictly adhered to and everyone plays very nicely.
That evening we had a boma which was such a treat. We came back to the lodge and they had opened the “secret doors” where they hide the boma during the day.
Day 12
The next morning, since we’d all been spoiled with so many incredible sightings, we mixed it up a bit and our guide recommended we participate in a heavier tracking activity, which we all agreed to. We closely followed the lion tracks from the night prior and learned a great deal about how they track. We even dropped our tracker in the bush with a walkie-talkie (normal practice in Sabi) and he spent time looking on foot for them. It took them most of the game drive but they were ultimately successful, and they were so excited that it was instantly worth it. The guiding and tracking at Dulini is easily a 10/10.
When we got back to the property, we were taken to do a quick site inspection of Dulini River and Leadwood.
Dulini River: This Dulini property stands out for two major reasons. Most importantly, it offers expansive views of the Sand River. Every room looks out on the river, allowing for casual game viewing from the convenience of the plunge pool, deck etc. This six-suite lodge is also decorated significantly different compared to Dulini Moya or Leadwood. The décor features light neutral colors that brighten the space and make this property feel almost as if you’re in a coastal safari region. The gym at River is also exceptional, so it’s ideal for any gym rat clients you have!
Dulini Leadwood: Leadwood is decorated similarly to Moya, with warmer neutral tones that make you feel like you’re cozily tucked away in the bush. It is the smallest Dulini property with only four suites and is better for honeymooners, or multi-gen families that want to purchase the property on an exclusive basis. The treehouse deck is a highlight of Leadwood and offers some of the best views of the Sand River as well.
After our tour, we departed for Savanna Private Game Reserve. On arrival I was instantly at amazed by how different the landscape was. It’s more open plains and much less shrubbery. Due to the shorter grasses, you can see the local town and the gate of the reserve easily from Savanna. The lodge itself feels like you’re in a jungle as they’ve planted tress all along reception and the paths leading up to the rooms! Savanna also has a watering hole right out in front of the mess tent which is huge as animals come to drink from it a lot, especially the elephants. Check in was smooth, rooms were well equipped and comfortable, they have everything you need! The views outside the rooms are also great as they have their own private mini watering holes as well. Quite the bush TV. Only a few minutes after check-in a massive herd of elephants came to visit, it took over 5 mins for all of them to come and go—babies and all!
We then had a tasty lunch outside which was separated (pre-covid everyone dined together). This is a change they plan to keep. Similar to Dulini they presented us with plated meals with about 6 dishes on it. It was more homestyle but really tasty!
Our guide, Kevin was exceptional with a witty sense of humor. He’s been at Savanna for over 10 years and as anyone will tell you, the staff there are truly like family. We had more exceptional game drive as the Sabi Sand continued to deliver. It was nice to spend some time on Savanna’s landscape as the viewing during green season is a lot easier at times.
Our sundowners were always in a picturesque location and we had delicious snacks and drinks. They made sure to have our beverages of choice available as well.
Our game drive ended at a surprise location, and we enjoyed a group dinner under the stars!
When we came back from dinner, they had drawn a bubble bath and included a note asking if that’s something we’d like for the duration of our stay. I thought that was such a fun add-on!
Day 13
The next day we enjoyed our game drives, as well as a siesta during the day (because why not)!
That evening they told us we’d have a group dinner and to freshen up at the room first. When we arrived at our room, we realized they had surprised us with a private dinner on our deck. The chorus of frogs was so loud 😊 Bush ambiance! Savanna no longer does group dinners every night and they always try to give guests some private dining. The dinner was delicious and so fun to be on our deck. The lodge managers are Neil (guide) and his wife Tash. They’re lovely and very interactive with the guests as they live on property full-time.
Day 14
After our last morning game drive, we (sadly) left for Skukuza Airport with a stop at Elephant Point. The nice part about Savanna is that it’s super close to the gate out the park making the transfer quite short!
We visited the Elephant Point private villas which were stunning. Check out Ann’s report for more details here as well
We then flew from Skukuza to Johannesburg. I said goodbye to my husband and continued on the work-only portion of the trip!
Jarat tours met me at the airport. Their vehicles were awesome! They had a toiletry kit in the vehicle, sparkling & still water available, mints, etc. They were extremely professional as well. We then drove 30 minutes through the city to The DaVinci Hotel. Check in was super easy, the room was spacious, clean, and the black and white décor throughout the hotel was a nice change. Service at the hotel was truly 5-star as well. It is a very lively hotel, especially since it’s attached to the mall, but I think in a way that can be comforting to people that are in Johannesburg for the first time.
The Spa at Da Vinci is magical as well. Worth a visit!
Day 15
Today I walked the mall and got to enjoy a beautiful day in Sandton. I think DaVinci is an amazing choice for people that want to explore just a little, but without the stress of their safety etc.
In the afternoon I took the included transfer to the Leonardo just up the road (Legacy offers free shuttles every 30 mins within 2km of the hotels). The Leonardo was a step up from DaVinci, a little more sophisticated crowd, and the main area is extremely quiet. Sadly, Alto234 was booked for a private event but their upper deck pool and restaurant area was an awesome 2nd place. I was able to watch the World Cup on a massive screen overlooking the city of Johannesburg, it doesn’t get much more unique than that. The Leonardo’s rooms were amazing! Great views, almost too spacious (kitchenette style), and welcome snacks on arrival etc.
For more information on DaVinci & Leonardo you’re also welcome to read Ann’s recent report!
Day 12
The next morning I had a delicious breakfast at the Leonardo and then headed off to Bakubung. The drive was almost exactly 2.5 hours and the roads were quite smooth. Check in went well and I was taken to my room. The property has a definite resort vibe and is the perfect spot for big groups! Instead of focusing on morning/afternoon game drives there’s also a focus on activities at the resort, especially for kids. The main pool was actually busy during the day which is rare for more properties.
The rooms were reminiscent of the DaVinci, they had a very similar layout (which makes sense, being that they’re both Legacy properties). Bakubung is definitely a hotel in the bush. The resort backs up to Pilanesberg so some elephants and plains game were usually in the area. It’s always nice to have that view of wildlife even while on property. Food is buffet style and there’s no shortage of options! If that weren’t enough, they do have an a la carte menu available as well just in case.
Day 13
The next morning, I went on my game drive with Bakubung. The vehicles are large 24 seaters, smaller vehicles are available for groups that pay the fee/opt for the 10-seater. Only 1 game drive per stay was included so I opted for the morning. It was surprisingly cold and while they do have blankets they’re on the thinner side. I hadn’t been that cold the whole trip, so definitely remember your layers! Our guide was extremely interactive with the kids on board and made the game viewing fun for them. There was a lot of education about all the animals we saw, and we stopped for every animal providing ample photographic opportunities. They do stop for snacks at the rest area in the park, but most of the vehicles in the area stop there so it does get quite busy.
Following my game drive, I left for Tshukudu (all transfers must go via Bakubung as Tshukudu is the only property in the park itself). This is a huge selling point about Tshukudu! Very solid 4-star experience. There is a 136+ stair hike up to the property but when you get up to the main area the views are exceptional!! They do group meals, unless there is a special occasion or request. Andre, their new GM, comes from Sabi, Jao Camp etc and has big plans for the property. The rooms are small but have everything you need and honestly very homey. I felt like I was in a mountain cabin and it was such a welcome change from massive hotel rooms 😊
The vehicles are 10 seaters and since they’re in the park they have some special access to different sundowner spots than the public areas that Bakubung visited. The guiding was excellent, very much a 5-star experience. Sadly, we had very rainy weather so we didn’t have the best opportunity for game viewing, but we did get the most ethereal double rainbow I’ve ever seen! During the rainy season Pilanesberg is extremely dense.
Our dinner was super tasty and they did a great job cooking the game meats (sprinkbok & kudu on the menu)! They didn’t have AC in the rooms (not that it was necessary) but good to note. The views from all the rooms are amazing, especially with the elevated decks!
Day 14
The next morning, I went out for a game drive but with all the rains the animals weren’t ready to hang out yet. We were able to see some giraffes and elephants though! Just after the game drive I left for Mhondoro which was a drive of about 3.5 hours from Pilanesberg. The drive to Mhondoro is usually 3 hours from Johannesburg to get to the gate and then another 45 minutes to an hour from the gate to the lodge. Mhondoro has it down though!
When I arrived at the gate my guide was already there to greet me and the other guests that had just arrived. We had some snacks and beverages and a chance to stretch our legs before the drive up to the property. Despite it being 45+ minutes it is essentially a game drive, so we took full advantage of that! Along the way we saw rhino (soooo many rhino with horns at Mhondoro), buffalo, elephants, and some plains game as well.
On arrival the staff warmly greeted us and gave us the grand tour! Mhondoro is beautifully decorated with light colors that make it feel extremely spacious and welcoming. I had a chance to drop my bags in my suite before lunch and wow were they spectacular! The decks with the large plunge pools and day beds are definitely a highlight! The views over the Welgevonden Game Reserve were so special.
Lunch was delicious (although way too much for one person—never go hungry they say)! Every day for lunch they have a new bread, soup of the day, and a lunch platter brought on a serving board. Mhondoro has a ton of residential wildlife so we had warthogs, zebra, and elephants just relaxing on the property. This was almost always the case (the elephants would come and go, everyone else was happy to stay).
We went out on our afternoon game drive and had so much fun. The topography is extremely mountainous, red sandstone paths, and water everywhere (hint: Waterberg mountains). It’s a completely different game drive experience and it was so enjoyable! Despite Welgevonden being open to the public, they do require that guests have a guide and safari vehicle for those game drives. It also means there’s a limit of 4 vehicles per sighting that is strictly adhered to. That made the experience that much better as everyone is professional, experienced, and respectful.
Game viewing required a little more effort here than in Sabi, much more how “typical” game viewing is but it also brought back that extreme excitement when you find them! First game drive out we found a mama cheetah and her two cubs and stayed with them for quite a while. The reserve is large so vehicles are extremely spread out as well.
That evening we had an incredible 5 course dinner. They typically keep dinners separated by travelers that are together so I had a nice solo dinner, but they gave me the best view in the house!
Day 15
This morning we went out for our game drive (another successful drive with lions and buffalo of particular excitement). We stopped for our morning coffee at a spot with rhino about 50 feet away. They were happily grazing away. So unreal!
Just after breakfast, which was a high-end buffet style I went for a 1.5 hour bush walk with one of the guides on the property. We saw some zebras fighting for dominance in the distance which is a much more thrilling experience when on foot! I always love getting the chance to go for a bush walk in different areas as it really allows for a well-rounded view of the area.
That afternoon I was treated to a magical massage and just as I was coming out the same cheetahs from the day prior were on the property! We loaded up the nearest vehicle with anyone who wanted to come (some staff members, lodge managers, guides etc) and drove a few feet for a better view of the visitors. The cheetah population at Welgevonden is quite healthy so it’s not uncommon to see several during a 2- or 3-night stay.
That evening we did our game drive, stopped for another serenely beautiful sundowner spot, and then came back to the lodge for a candlelit group dinner. I wish I could put into words how exceptional their food was, but they did it again and no one left hungry!
Day 16
The next morning was my last game drive at Mhondoro and I’d seen 4 out of the Big 5 during our time. Our guide said leopards are quite shy in the area but we would try to find one…a few hours later, wouldn’t you know it, we came across one of the leopards on the reserve. She was very shy, but she did pose on a rock for us for a few minutes before dashing off again. The excitement from the other vehicles and guides was palpable. Seeing rare animals on every game drive is a dream, but when they’re harder to spot and you’re rewarded, it means so much more and becomes memorable.
That afternoon I had the chance to do a full site-inspection and check out the private villa. Basically it’s mini-Mhondoro as it operates completely separately, but is just next door. It’s a true home away from home and comfortably sleeps 6. Absolutely ideal for multi-gen families or even friends traveling together!
Mhondoro ended up being one of the highlights of my trip. It’s such a special property and being so close to Johannesburg it’s exceptionally convenient!
I feel so lucky to have been able to spend 3 weeks in Africa. It was the perfect way to end 2022, celebrate my belated honeymoon, and immerse myself in the same places where KAI found it’s roots.
