A First-Timer’s Impression of India and its Treasures
November 2017
India: Need to Know Facts
Time Zone: IST (Indian Standard Time) GMT + 5:30
Phone Code: Country code: +91
Currency: Rupee (INR) At time of report 1USD to 65 INR
Entry/Exit Requirements: U.S. and Canadian citizens must hold a passport with at least six months’ validity to enter India. Additionally, all travelers must apply for a visa, either via local consulate or with an e-visa online (indianvisaonline.gov.in/evisa) and have a printed visa in hand before boarding a flight to India. While the e-visa will be process in maximum 72 hours, it is recommended that you complete the required process a few weeks in advance. The cost is $76 USD.
Official Languages: Hindi and English
Location: Stretching from the Himalayan Mountains on the boarder of Pakistan, China and Kashmir to The Indian Ocean and neighboring Sri Lanka, India covers a lot of space. To put it into perspective, India is about 1/3 the size of the US.
Tipping: Guides - $10-$20 for a full day. $2-$7 for driver depending on length of travel day. Tipping can be done in USD or Rupees. It is smart to always carry small bills in India.
Arriving In Delhi
Upon debarking the Emirates A380 at Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL) in Delhi, I was unsure of what to expect. Being my first time stepping foot in India I had a preconceived image of what the country was and wasn’t. Almost instantly, those initial notions of the country were shattered. From that moment on, I was traveling in my favorite state of mind, open minded, really to be surprised and full of wonder.
Walking off the plane, there were three passengers that had someone waiting at the end of the jet bridge for them. One person was there holding a sign with my name. A plane carrying over 300 people and I was one of three to have that service… The elite of the elite. This was my first taste of experiencing Eastbound Travel Group and while I was extremely impressed, I would learn that this is standard practice of Eastbound for all clients arriving in India. This would also be the first of many times Eastbound would exceed my expectations.
Having arranged an e-visa ahead of time, the process thus far had been quick, easy and hassle free to do from the states. On the down side, as it is seen as a ‘less vetted’ process than going to the consulate, they go over more formalities and it takes longer when you arrive at immigration at the airport. This highlights once more a reason to have someone waiting for you at the jet bridge and get you going and through immigration as fast as possible.
Eastbound also arranged to have me brought to my hotel, The Leela Palace New Delhi. In the car was water, tissues, candy, cookies, snacks, anti-bacterial soap and most importantly, a friendly faced driver and guide – even at 4am. Eastbound can arrange any vehicle that your clients want from an entry level Innova Crysta to a BMW or Rolls Royce.
The Leela Palace New Delhi
Every inch of The Leela Palace New Delhi was taken into consideration and planned to perfection. If you think of how a modern day Maharaja would want their palace to look and feel… that is The Leela. Hitting on every sense and emotion, I would come to realize that this palace is without question my favorite property in New Delhi.
Walking into the Leela is an experience in itself. Regardless of the hour you arrive, in my case this was 4:30am, you’ll be greeted by a large number of smiling staff. Aside from the smiles and warm greetings, the first thing to really hit me was the smell. The Leela smells amazing. I can imagine how this may sound strange, but I have heard the same thing from other travel professional that have stayed at The Leela New Delhi. I’m very thankful it’s not just me.
The Leela Palace New Delhi is not only perfect in its appearance (and smell), but also, and arguably more importantly, in its staff. There are always floating staff members in the lobby, but they are not overbearing and never hindering your experience. From the bellmen to the many chefs, the staff is second to none, not only for India, but for the world.
The decor of The Leela Palace New Delhi is remarkable. Hardwood floors and stunning rugs in the rooms are complemented by local handcrafted pieces of furniture. Each room in the hotel is uniquely decorated and given its own personality. Outside of the room and suites, as you walk around the palace, there are 1,400 handpicked works of art. To see all of this, The Leela offers a complimentary 45 minute art walk tour. The décor is not all art, however, as each day 14,000 flowers are brought into the hotel. 1,000 are imported from other countries. As I mentioned, every inch planned to perfection.
As with the entire Leela brand, the culinary scene at The Leela Palace New Delhi is incredible. From the personal interactions with the head chefs to the magnificence of the cuisine itself, each restaurant seems to be better than the next.
Having 4 unique restaurants as well as The Library Bar, you are sure to be pleased with your meal:
· When you tell a local Indian that you stayed at The Leela Palace New Delhi, they ask if you ate at Jamavar, the intimate Indian Specialty Restaurant.
· One of the highest demand restaurants in New Delhi, a top The Leela Palace New Delhi is New York’s own, Le Circ.
· As someone who has been to Japan, I was shocked that my favorite Japanese meal of my life was in India. Megu offers an authentic Japanese culinary experience with experts on hand to describe the details of each bite to you.
· All day dining at The Qube ensures that there are always options for different pallets and desires. Created as if you are dining is a glass house, the views of the gardens are a lovely compliment to the food.
Around Delhi
“There are three things you need to drive in Delhi: a good horn, good brakes and good luck.”
– My Eastbound driver
My first surprise about Delhi was how green of a city it is. There are so many trees and parks, which I personally never would have guessed from such a largely populated city. Meandering through those trees and the roads you’re likely to find camels, monkeys or cows. Everything exists as one which brought me to my second surprise realization.
Delhi is a transparent city. The city does not try to hide anything. You’ll see the wealth next to the poverty. You’ll see camels next to BMWs. Kids tapping on your window begging for money and transgender people being paid to bless passengers as they sit in the inevitable traffic. Delhi does not hide what it is and I respect that.
One of my biggest concerns before heading to Delhi (and all major cities in India) was the amount of pollution and smog there would be. In talking with the locals, one person will tell you it’s a lie and the next will say it’s the worst in the world. In truth, it is bad, but it is manageable for a short time. If I were to live in Delhi full time, I may have issues, however as a guest of the city, only here for 3 day, even with my asthma, I was unaffected.
Delhi itself has many sites which can keep you occupied for countless days. In my short time I had the chance to visit a few of the highlights including Jama Mosque, Humayun’s Tomb, Gandhi’s Cremation Site. Each special and historic in their own right, these are just some of the wonders of Delhi.
Arriving in Udaipur
After being picked up in a BMW by the Leela, I was transferred from Maharana Pratap Airport (UDR) and brought a jetty exclusively operated by The Leela. The ride takes about 45 minutes and gives a quick glance into local life. As the staff took care of my bags at the jetty, I made my way onto The Leela’s boat in the stunning Lake Pichola. The lake emits a peaceful beauty that simply takes your breath away. Boating from the jetty to the Palace entrance and taking in Lake Pichola for the first time is something you’ll never forget. The Palace and city to the right, the rolling hills to the left, the sun shining down and glistening in the water... Thinking of it now runs chills down my spine.
As if being sent off in a private boat through one of the most beautiful lakes imaginable wasn’t enough, the welcome at The Leela Udaipur was incredible. Upon pulling into The Leela, I was greeted at the dock by at least 8 smiling faces. As I walked from the boat into the Palace, a duo of musicians serenaded me in traditional music, while flower petals fell from above. I was brought to my room by my personal butler and offered a welcome drink and show around the room. Not a bad arrival!
The Leela Palace Udaipur
The Leela Palace Udaipur is a work of art. In a city as majestic, tranquil and beautiful as this, The Leela Palace is the only property that truly compliments its surroundings. If experiencing Udaipur is about soaking in the history, enjoying the beautiful views and doing so in the most luxurious fashion possible, there is simply nowhere else to be.
To start each room and suite faces the Lake. While this is a small detail to some properties in the area, waking up each morning to watch the sun rise over the City Palace is almost spiritual. In my three days spent at The Leela Palace Udaipur, I made sure to wake up in time to watch the sun rise and I was always happy to be able to do that from the comfort of my own room.
As with The Leela Palace New Delhi, The Leela Palace Udaipur was built as if it was created in the vision of a modern-day maharaja. The palace is home to the first luxury tented spa in India, the largest pool in the city, a massive collection of unique local art and the best view in the country to have dinner, on the banks of Lake Pichola at Sheesh Mahal. Simply put, if you stay here once, you’ll never want to stay anywhere else in Udaipur again.
After having experienced The Leela Palace New Delhi, I was expecting phenomenal service and I was not disappointed. Each time I was scheduled to go somewhere, I would find my personal butler waiting outside my room as if he had just arrived. The first few times I thought “perfect timing”. I would come to realize that it was not perfect timing, it was perfect service - they are just that good at what they do.
The entire staff was not only friendly, but genuinely interested in what I had to say and how I was doing. By the end of my second night at The Leela Palace Udaipur and going into my final day, I no longer felt like a tourist. Instead, I felt like family. I was not greeted each morning as a stranger, but as a friend. In such a short time the staff had grown to know me, my preferences, my tastes and my comfort level with conversation and attention.
The Leela Palace Udaipur is a work of art in a city of artistic beauty beyond words. The Palace captures the true essence of the culture and place. From the traditional tented spa and local cuisine at Sheesh Mahal to the musicians that are always playing somewhere in the Palace, sometimes even accompanied by dancers, this Palace found out how to take what is already an incredible history and enrich it in a luxurious fashion.
Around Udaipur
The white city… Venice of the East… City of Lakes and Mountains… whatever you call it, there is one thing for certain - Udaipur is bound to take your breath away in the best possible way. A magical and enchanting place, Udaipur is truly a hidden gem in a country rich in treasures. A land of palaces, markets, food and jewels, all set in a stunningly beautiful surrounding.
While year-round Udaipur can be enjoyed, October to late March are the ideal times to visit. Late June until the end of September is the rainy season, leaving April to mid-June as the very hot period.
My personal favorite part of Udaipur was the natural beauty and relaxed pace of life. In a country where many destinations are known for the chaotic speed and crowds, it’s great to find a calm break amid the chaos. All of that said, Udaipur offers so much more than just taking a deep breath.
Udaipur’s ‘main attraction’ is certainly the City Palace. Taking a walk around a 400 year old palace that played a starring role in the James Bond film Octopussy, is in itself pretty special. Yes, the palace will be touristy, but with far more Indian’s from other parts of the country than international tourists. This is a part of Udaipur that while beautiful and offering a rich history on its own, should really be done with a professional guide to get the full experience. Fortunately, I was with Vikram, an Eastbound guide and hands down one of the best guides I have ever had. From the centuries old miniature paintings that are made by the same family today as they were 300 years ago, to the incredible glass work – this is a special place.
One of my favorite parts of spending the day with Vikram was that the day was an open book! We had a planned schedule, but Vikram made it clear that we could do anything and go anywhere. Changing plans on the fly is not only a non-issue, it is highly recommended as you get to understand Udaipur better.
Upon asking for a truly authentic experience, Vikram took me to Dhan Mandi Market. Walking around the 400 year old market, I did not see another westerner. It was a pure and authentic look at local life. The streets were busy with the energy of life. Shops of all specialties existed side by side. A rope shop next to a bird cage shop. A locksmith next to a cobbler. All kinds of spices and fruits at your fingertips waiting to be purchased (or in my case photographed). We walked for about 45 minutes and I can safely say that those were some of my favorite memories from Udaipur. Along the same vein, Eastbound can offer tours of local villages and homes for those looking for that unique and authentic experience.
Udaipur is not all about the sights. It is also one of the capitals for Jewelry Shopping in India: There are jewelry shops everywhere. Some are legit, but many are fake or overpriced. For guaranteed quality, customer service and fair pricing, be sure to speak with me first to arrange a private showing at a trusted venue.
From walking around the old city (cars do not fit in the roads, so the only modes of transportation are tuk tuk, motorbike or walking) to sitting on the edge of the lake and looking out at the beautiful vista, Udaipur is a must for the traveler exploring the riches of India.
Around Mumbai
After visiting Delhi and Udaipur, Mumbai was a completely different city. Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (BOM) just finalized a renovation and the place is beautiful! Very easy to navigate, clean and located in the north, keeps it away from the main touristic sights of the city.
I stayed at The Leela Palace Mumbai, which is very close to BOM and the best 5* option for clients who will only be using Mumbai as a quick connecting hub. If clients are planning to enjoy Mumbai for any longer than a quick stop over, south is the only place to be.
There is a very colonial feel in Mumbai. From The Prince of Whales Museum to The Gateway of India, an arch built from 1911 to 1924 specifically to welcome the King and Queen during their visit to India, the history of Mumbai is deep in the city’s roots. It is a city that blends past and present. As the financial capital of India, Mumbai hosts many large companies and is often visited by the business traveler as well as tourist.
For those wanting nightlife or a boat ride out into the Arabian Sea, Mumbai, while not usually at the top of the list for leisure guests, can certainly offer much. Many who visit find themselves learning about Bollywood, one of the largest film industries in the world.
While Mumbai did not capture me in the same way as Delhi or Udaipur, there is a different history here that does make me want to go back and see more. It makes me want to wander down the old cobble stone street, enjoy a cocktail and watch the sun set into sea.
The Leela Mumbai
The Leela Mumbai resides in North Mumbai and as the very first Leela property is the flagship of the entire brand.
As discussed, much of the tourist attractions are in the South, making The Leela not an ideal spot for those staying in Mumbai for more than a night. That said, for the client that are simply using Mumbai as a gateway city and leaving the next day, there is no better option than The Leela. Being a 5 minute drive to the airport, it is by far the best option. With Mumbai’s notorious traffic, getting to the hotels in South Mumbai will take a minimum of 1 hour and if the traffic is bad, upwards of 2 hours.
The property itself caters more to the business traveler than the guest in town for leisure. However, visiting for a leisure trip, the property still was excellent. Rooms and staff were fantastic, as I had now learned to be the standard with all things Leela. Also in keeping with the Leela tradition are impeccable dining options that include The Great Wall, a high end Chinese restaurant, Jamavar, for the traditional Indian fare, Citrus, for all day and all nationality dining, and of course, once again, Le Cirque.
Final Thoughts
Going into India with many preconceived ideas allowed me to be so happy when those ideas were shattered. India has proven to be one of the most eye opening and unexpected joys in my travel life.
While I had always enjoyed Indian food, this trip was one of the greatest culinary travel experience of my life. On top of the food being absolutely delicious, I learned so much, such as in Northern India you eat with bread, while in Southern India you eat with rice. I tasted new flavors and discover a new love of authentic Indian food. That being said, you cannot eat only Indian for an entire trip, so having the exceptional options at The Leela properties is wonderful.
Another takeaway for me was the immeasurable kindness of the people of India. I am continuously blown away with the overwhelming and outward kindness shown to me. Strangers on the street and 5* hotels staff alike, there is a clear warmth shown from the Indian people that makes a traveler feel at home in a foreign land.
The art of India was unexpected and made me look at an aspect of travel I usually ignore and do not pay enough attention to. Exploring ancient palaces and cities is one thing, but to also have the palace you are staying in be essentially a museum full of unique art was great. After an afternoon of touring, but before dinner, my favorite thing to do was get a cocktail or glass of wine and simply wander the hotel and look at all of the art.
The biggest take away and probably what surprised me the most is how much I want to go back to India. There is more to New Delhi, Udaipur and Mumbai I want to see, but even more so there are so many more regions I want to explore. India is a land full of treasures and knowing I’ve only scratched the service leaves me wanting more and eager to return.